Glorious Italian Food - VA BENE !

If you are anything like us, food and festas are an important component to daily pleasure,  for a comprehensive listing of the festas in our region check out the list at the end of our Blog and if you are looking for Great Italian Food when you look at Villas for rent in Tuscany then  La Collina del Sole will not dissapoint, and if you are looking for typically local food while in your Holiday Villas in Lucca then yet again you have struck gold ! For the Best Italian food we suggest, Trattoria di Bonini Pier in Via Monteperpoli 147 – Monteperpoli   55032 their telephone is  0583 639 425 and  0583 62210, This Trattoria is  HIGHLY RECCOMENDED. They are just completing a total refurbishment of the exterior and interior [ to a stone and bick finish ] They have an excellent and amazingly reasonable lunch menu for approximately € 10, including house wine ! There also have the most amazing a la carte dinning which is best appreciated in the evening in the downstairs restaurant. A handful of our favorites are homemade Linguini with Truffles when in season, Tagliatta of Beef with Grilled vegetables, all the game dishes are exceptional. The owner has an impressive list and knowledge of wines which are also well priced. The cost of an a la carte meal is approximately Euro 25, plus wine. It is closed on Tuesdays.  To get there allow 20 minutes drive from the best Villa rentals in Tuscany you very own La Collina del Sole drive towards Castelnuovo, however just before the bridge into town and just after the FIAT garage, turn sharp left towards Paleroso and Monteperpoli, keep left and driving uphill towards Paleroso, you will see it on your left, it has a limited car park.

For an accessible “ Slow Food” experience only a 20 minute drive from La Collina del Sole  when you rent a villa in Tuscany we suggest  Il Pozzo in Pieve Fosciana, Via Europa 2 /A, their telephone is  0583 66 63 80. It has the BEST antipasto [mixed starter] dish in the area. Giordano and Maurizio founded Il Pozzo in 1985 and have formed part of the “Slow Food” movement from its inception. Their Menu Degustation has home-made pasta, home grown vegetables and herbs. Their list of approximately 120 Italian wines includes some from Lucca, Tuscany and further afield. They are passionate about the origins of the food they prepare and have won several awards. Il Pozzo has great food and good ambience any time of year, usually busy but capacious. They close on Wednesdays apart from August when they open seven days a week.

For a Fantastic experience of Local specialties in a truly local and very charming setting we suggest Trattoria del Pescatore in Lago Isola Santa, their Telefones are  0583 639408 &  333 709 5763  which is a mobile. Set in the heart of the Marble Hills a 50 minute drive from La Collina del Sole . Gabrielle Matzei set up his own small restaurant in Isola Santa a small village part of which he has restored and brought back to life. Specialties include local truffle which is sold very reasonably and Funghi Porcini, for mushroom lovers this restaurant is a must. He also has a permit you will need to buy if you want to fish for the succulent local trout of the lake. He is one of the most gifted cooks of the area and has had extensive write ups in gastronomic magazines including “Bon Apetit”. For his website check out www. anticoborgoisolasanta.it

Buon Apetito ! and now for festas ... Gallicano is hosting the gastronomic event called Il Pane e le Rose from the 14 to the 24 of June. San Romano hosts the tradicional "throw of Cheese rounds" on the 17th of June in Orzaglia San Romano Trassilico is hosting on the 17th of June a cultural and musical, street artist filled astronomy related gastronomic event;  the mind boggles ! Pieve Fosciana has a Gastronomic feast in the historic centre of town on 17th of June For something different you could join the 31st Alpine pilgrimage on the 17th of June at Monte Argegna in Minucciano. In Silano however you have the festa of their patron saint Sant Antonio on the 17th. Also on the 17th you can visit the house of the Befana in  Pegnana , Barga and if you are late for that,  fear not,  on the 23and 24there is a Gastronomic delight in the same town Pruno in Stazzema hosts from the 20 to the 24 of June  the "sentieri di Pietra" event with more culture, music, astonomy and ... you got it FOOD Piazza al Serchio hosts a musical event entitled "Notte Bianca" on the 23rd of June On the 23rd of June you can also visit Gramolazzo in the region of Minucciano and join them in their yearly festa, dancing food and fun guatanteed OR go to Pian di Correglia in Correglia Antelminelli and join a "western" themed festa ... the choice is yours!

Let the Music Begin !

Following on from last week’s look at Festas in Garfagnana next to your favourite La Collina del Sole a handpicked jewel among Villas for rent in Tuscany, you will find many Music festivals not only with Opera as seen in our blog for Opera buffs  in May but with Jazz, Worldwide Folkloric Music and Contemporary music, even music competitions so when you next pick your Villa rentals in Tuscany   we suggest you check out the menu of musical choices available. If you rent a villa in Tuscany close to Barga you can partake in the Jazz Festival competition, whereas if you chose holiday villas in Lucca you would do well to check the latest itinerary of the Lucca Summer Festival in Piazza Napoleone, Lucca, held in July each year it attracts a star studded guest list for example: Elton John, Liza Minelli, BB King and Jamiroquai, Paul Simon and Oasis. In 2012 the list of performances are : Tom Petty and the Heartbrakers on 29 June BLINK -182 on 4th of July Norah Jones 14th July Gossip 19th of July Duran Duran on 21st of July Toto on 29 of July

If you prefer something closer to La Collina del Sole then Barga has an amazing Jazz Festival Contest, Barga is a beautiful town full of history that hosts Painters, Artisans, special food events and this unusual Jazz contest.

Or for a TOTAL change of scene how about Camporgiano which hosts the International Folkloric Festival with Argentinian Tango and Mexican dancing among others livening up the sultry Tuscan skies. Most villages in Garfagnana will have some music festival whether, modern, classic, jazz, children singing or local opera, Pontecosi a very picturesque village by a Lake just North of Castelnuovo it is a fabulous backdrop  for fun music filled Festas. Tango evenings also feature here

In Fosciadora our area you can dance under the stars durign the few days at either side of Santa Maria [ the virgin Mary’s birthday ] on the 15th of August, so whatever music you choose a live concert or a relaxed listening session at La Collina del Sole watching the sunset while listening to your favourite CD … enjoy

Festa time approaches !

As evening approaches at La Collina del Sole your favourite Villas for rent in Tuscany during June, July, August and September ......  the whole region explodes with “too many festas to count” the season of fun begins so find your favourite Holiday Villas in Lucca  as all round the villa rentals in Tuscany festas pop up everywhere with villages transforming themselves into medieval fortressed towns, or playing hosts for a good old "fun times" festa.So when you look to rent a villa in Tuscany we would like to point out that there are 4 different types of festas: Art and artisanal events with local customs on show Medieval extravaganzas Music Festivals and then …. the good old FUN parties for all the locals to  go a dance and “be” together,  where you can show off your foxtrot, tango and waltzing abilities. For an updated and comprehensive list of “Festas” see the English translated hand-out given at all the shops in Castelnuovo. Some festas celebrate particular types of local food, like Festa della Trota [trout], Festa della Porchetta [roast suckling pig], Festa della Bistecca, Festa della Polenta. All the Food will be homemade with great Pride so guaranteed to be spectacularly good. You can also find local art exhibitions and local photography shows which are held in larger towns, like Castelnuovo and Barga. Most importantly, local artisanal produce gatherings happen alongside festas or town events. These gatherings abound in the region and show a rich variety of handmade terracotta, textiles, wax, hand stitching , woodwork, glass and all manner of fascinating and compelling works.

Here is the Calendar of Medieval Medleys

In July • Casoli (Bagni di Lucca)  Medioevo in Val di Lima with Medieval scenes • Coreglia Antelminelli  Notte nell’antico borgo evening event set high up in the hills Correglia hosts an unforgettable evening • Sillico (Pieve Fosciana)  a Bandits dinner during Ariostos time in Garfagnana, remember poor ol Ariosto was attascked by bandits during his tenure at Castelnuovo HIGHLY RECCOMENDED also a yummy restaurant just outside town !

August • Trassillico (Gallicano)  The siege of 1512 in Trassillico is re-enacted • Castiglione di Garfagnana  A Medieval day in the Castle of Castiglione a spectacular backdrop for the event • Lucchio (Bagni di Lucca)  A medieval day • Sillico (Pieve Fosciana)  "Silico bandits in Ariostos Garfagnana ... at dinner This is one of the best festivals around, held 3 times from end of july and first weeks of august, aprox 15 euro per person allows you to enjoy a three course meal and medieval romps with great views • Gombereto (Bagni di Lucca) Giornata Medievale sulle Rocche in other words A medeival day ... enjoy the perfect anitidote to a lazy day by the sun !

Keep on Walking !

The Idyllic walks surrounding La Collina del Sole are worth exploring at your favorite, Villa rentals in Tuscany as discovered by Rachel Graham our first guest this season!  Do check her photos on the Facebook page La-Collina-del-Sole as well as their fabulous Pizza making! We would recommend walking north to La Villa and Ceserana which belonged to the Este dynasty from Modena in the 1452; although they both belonged to the same principality they have long had an amicable rivalry going on.

LA VILLA With lovely views and a central plaza which many of the houses look onto. Both La Villa and Ceserana can be walked to by road going from La Collina del Sole to Fosciandora, then dropping down and right at the Casa Rosa, a bright pink house and following the well-trodden “Sentieri“or walkways which travels behind houses, down a ravine and up to the back entrance of La Villa follow through the village going down and left and you behold ….

CESERANA Of particular interest in Ceserana is the Rocca di Ceserana or the Fortress of Ceserana; You have a gorgeous view of it from La Collina del Sole the jewel among Holiday villas in Lucca, the Rocca di Ceserana is a Romanesque church of Saint Andrea, built on a stone outcrop, the fortress was an important Military garrison and stronghold in the XIII and XIV centuries, it was used to combat the “Salt Pirates” who inhabited the Apuane hills and in particular had their HQ in Fornovolasco. Salt whcih is used to purify our pool water [ whcih means you can open your eyes underwater with no stinging sensation !] was a very precious commodity in the middle ages as it was the only way of either preserving things or keeping them cool and therefore fresh for longer, Gelato which was invented in Florence durign the Renaissance, was dependent on the cooling properties of Salt. The fortress of Ceserana built on a stone outcrop, includes a cave which housed the locals during air raids in WWII and was re-opened in 2008. Going South just below La Collina del Sole  one of the  Villas for rent in Tuscany with great charm and character is Riana and Trepignana  both of which belonged to the principality of Lucca.

RIANA & TREPIGNANA A lovely afternoon walk about 2.5 hour there and back, with lovely views. There is a tiny cafe and small shop in Riana. To get there walk down the sentiero on the South side of La Collina del Sole  and keep walking down until you get to a tarmac road, depending of which path you took you might find yourself very close to the ….

SANTUARIO “Madonna delle Stelle”  which has newly been reopened as a monastery in May 2012. On this site,  stood a place of worship to the Virgin Mary in 1167. It is said to have been destroyed by an earthquake. The ruins were found in 1798 with a Fresco of the Madonna which dates back several centuries. On this site a new church was built and consecrated in 1827 and attracts pilgrims from many miles around.

Once you have passed the Santuario keep heading South to Riana entering via the car park make sure you have a good walk around it is a very unspoilt village,  Once you are ready keep heading South upwards towards Trepignana on the tarmacked road, you will pass a very large building full of the bullet scars inflicted during WW II, keep going you will reach the very quiet and solitary village of Trepignana,  From there you can take the road back or go cross country and go past a desolate stone garrison, and the hidden German HQ at the bottom of the ravine just by La Collina del Sole however please make sure you have a guide with you as it is very easy to get lost in the woods …………… like Little Red Riding Hood !

So we suggest you have Francesco to guide you the best way to contact him via his girlfriend Alina + 39 331 39 85 869  at   alinadamelia@gmail.com

If you wish to have long leisurely walks when you Rent a villa in Tuscany,   Check out La Collina del Sole !

So what is it about "La Dolce Vita"

Well for starters it starts when you are inmersed in all things Italy !For us it is all about having lived at La Collina del Sole for the last 23 years it is the people and places around us which have made it the most welcoming of Holiday Villas in Lucca For those staying at the jewel among Villa rentals in Tuscany and NOT wanting to get into a car, we thought you might enjoy a little review of things and services which are a short walking distance from the Villa. First of all La Collina del Sole is unique among Villas for rent in Tuscany as it commands THE most marvellous views of the Carrara Marble hills, now had Michelangelo lived here he would have created many more sculptures as he insisted on choosing the marble chunks himself. So without moving a muscle you are already enjoying one of the top delights of the area.

ALSO this is MAY which is when you get to see the fireflies in fields all around La Collina del Sole, it looks almost like a subdued and silent discotheque. The weather is almost always PERFECT not too hot, and cool in the evening

The second attraction is the people, churches and amenities La Collina del Sole is just outside the village of Fosciandora  which has a church and many “ sentieri ” or footpaths which criss-cross the hills. Fosciandora’s first inhabitants date back to Etruscan times.

This entire area was fiercely fought over by the principalities of Lucca, Pisa, Florence and the Este dynasty from Modena, in the 15th century, so there is plenty to explore.  In 1452 the principality of Lucca ruled over Lupinaia, Riana and Trepignana, these are above and to the south of La Collina del Sole and the Estes of Modena ruled over La Villa and Ceserana which are to the North of our Villa.

First off we must cover  the bare necessities of Food, clothing, communication and medicines all of which are in Migliano a relatively modern town by Italian history standards it is a 15 minute walk downhill.

Food  - Moscardini Mari Chiara’s  a Bar and General Shop in Via Roma, Migliano, Telefone 0583 66 20 32 if you walk on the road follow directions to Migliano, Mar Chiara’s is next door to our Town Hall, if you walk cross country which will require a good pair of trainers, follow the  pathway just outside the villa going left and follow through the village of Fosciandora and continue downhill keeping the Migliano church tower in view. Mari Chiara carries a handy selection of general food items like cheese, cold meats, tinned food, fresh bread, ice cream, home grown vegetables and fruit and it is a café. The Town Hall houses the Post office should you need it Downhill a little more you will find our local  Farmacia Lemmi , Via Roma 7,Migliano. Telefone 0583 66 22 09.  Pharmacies on the whole sell a whole range of antibiotics over the counter, and as trained pharmacists can offer a great deal of useful advice.

Our local Pharmacy or “Farmacia Lemmi” is located in Migliano, below the offsite car park, it is clearly signposted. It is part of the Lemmi group of Pharmacies it has a very good selection of traditional medicines  & homeopathic remedies and can obtain most things within 6 hours, from their sister Pharmacy in Castelnuovo. They are very friendly.  Opening hours 9 -1.30 and 3.30 – 7pm.

Now for the last “Bare Necessity” Clothes by Rossi Maria Gemma on Via Roma, Migliano This wee shop offer clothes and gifts, Maria has a handy selection of clothes and underwear for men, women and children. Maria runs this shop with her daughter Gessica; they also have a selection of beautifully hand-stitched items like baby clothes, kitchen linen and other gifts. They sell lovely handmade fresh lavender linen fresheners -  highly recommended for yourself or as gifts, the owners are super kind !

Now for a spot of culture If you take the sentiero down from La Collina del Sole you get to The Santurio dell Santa Stella which was re-commisioned on Sunday 6th of June 2012 as a monastery having been used only as a church for a couple of decades. On this site in 1167 stood a place of worship to the Virgin Mary, it was destroyed by an earthquake. The ruins were found in 1798 with a Fresco of the Madonna which dates back several centuries. On this site a new church was built and consecrated in 1827 and has attracted pilgrims from many miles around.

Going uphill from La Collina del Sole is Lupinaian with its fortified walls date back to 1616 This was a bastion of the principality of Lucca with amazing views it is a lovely walk on the road and cross country. Above Lupinaia are the Prade Garfagnine which can be reached by foot by local Sentieri, these Prade are the home to many Funghi Porcini, and many visitors come from afar to collect the precious mushrooms. You will notice that the cuisine of the area has Funghi as a central ingredient.

The Prade have wonderful views and quiet meadows. If you walk up to Lupinaia by the sentieri  you will walk through the hidden “Pradi di Lupinaia” full of terraced agriculture.  Calm tranquil. Idyllic photo below ! We would recommend also walking North to La Villa and Ceserana which belonged to the Este dynasty from Modena in the 1452, or you could walk South to Riana and Trepignana which belonged to the principality of Lucca, however for insights into these towns we will have to go to the enxt blog this one is getting too long ! So if you want to Rent a Villa in Tuscany choose La Collina del Sole  !

For Opera Buffs

Do you feel like a spot of Opera while you stay in La Colllina del Sole the top choice within Villas for rent in Tuscany ?  We have discovered quite a few places which might delight you. From the little known and extremely cosy Opera in Vetriano, to the Arena in Verona.Vetriano is the smallest historical public theatre in the world at 71 sq. metres it’s first performance was in 1891. At present it is protected by FAI which stands for Fondo per l'Ambiente Italiano which is the equivalent to the National Trust of Italy [ a private not for profit organization], it dedicates itself to protect elements of Italy's physical heritage which might otherwise be lost The "teatrino" in Vetriano was built in 1890, when an engineer called Biagini donated his barn to build a theatre at the time the town had a population of 400 people. This is not unusual,  Italians have LOVED opera  for centuries and most small towns had an Opera house. Two Opera house towns near La Colina del Sole  the jewel among  Holiday villas in Lucca  are Barga and Castelnuovo both of whom have recently restored their “Teatros” and which were historically mainly used for Opera. The founding of Vetriano started when a village group of 18 people bankrolled its construction with a deposit of two lire up front and then fifty cents per month until the work was completed, Sounds like a pretty good deal to me ! and puts Glyndebourne debentures to shame. The "teatrino" became an important cultural center for the village, however after WW II, the theatre started to fall into disrepair, the Town Hall tried to do restructuring work in 1983 with little success. In 1997 the Biagini inheritors donated their share of ownership of the theatre to the FAI, and a year later, restructuring work was taken up again,  the architect was Guglielmo Mozzoni and the "teatrino was officially reopened on the 28th September 2002. To find out what Operas are being performed you will have to contact FAI directly as there is a very small number of seats available,  around 25 spectators allowed only.

As described earlier if you are staying at the beautiful La Collina del Sole the beauty among Villa rentals in Tuscany you could hop over to Castelnuovo di Garfagnana where if you are quick you can see La Traviatta by Giuseppe Verdi on Saturday 12 of May at 9pm at the Teatro  Alfieri di Castelnuovo. Or another town near La Collina del Sole is Barga which has an Opera Festival during the month of July, performances take place in the late 18th Century theatre, Teatro dei Differenti which seats 289, The main artistic aim of the festival is to perform works from the Baroque era - in addition to operas by Vivaldi and other modern operas . Just over a month ago it was announced that the production featured at the “Opera Barga Festival 2012” will be the opera “Gli equivoci nel sembiante” by Alessandro Scarlatti composed in 1679. Do not be put off if the link to the Festival Opera Barga still has the productions for 2011 up, be persistent,  call them and be patient  … you are in Italy.

If you are both wanting to see World Class Opera and Rent a villa in Tuscany during the summer then we suggest you visit Torre del Lago, or go to the Arena of Verona,  if you are visiting in October  then see  Parma for the Verdi Festival  during the month of October .

So for world class Opera Closest to La Collina del Sole and if you would like to be assured of a place go to the Opera in Torre del Lago, which specializes in operas by Puccini, who is considered by some the father of Italian Opera, lived and composed many of his masterpieces in Torre del Lago. The Puccini Festival Opera 2012 season starts on the 20th July with Tosca and ends late in August. Alongside Tosca other operas showing are La Traviata, La Boheme and Madame Butterfly. We visited  when the Opera was very much in the open air with light rain interrupting arias frequently which added a touch of difference to the experience, however the auditorium is now re-built and is much improved  and very popular so if you are interested we recommend, you book early and you get there at least 3.5 hours before the performance to soak up the atmosphere and have a meal beforehand.

Next in distance is Parma where this year the 2012 Verdi Festival starts on the 1st of October and ends on the 28th they are showing Othello and La battaglia di Legnano . The festival is held in October as this is the month in which Verdi was born, in the Duchy of Parma and Piacenza. THE most spectacular Opera experience has got to be the Arena di Verona. Verona is 4 hours drive North East from La Collina del Sole going through Parma. However the season starts in June and ends in early September so if you were hoping to catch both seasons it is impossible, you will just have to visit your favourite Holiday villas in Lucca for both seasons ! The Arena di Verona is most amazing venue for Opera as it is held in a funtioning Roman Colliseum in the centre of Verona with its yearly season one of the most impressive operas to see there is AIDA as they havemany live animals in the production including at times elephants ! Another well known site in Verona is “Juliet’s balcony” reputedly the balcony where the love struck couple Romeo and Juliet met in secret…. Romance ... Opera ... Italy it all fits perfectly together !

Florence - Hmmm ....

Arguably the centre of civilization, 90 minutes’ drive from La Collina del Sole,  one of the most  beautiful Villa Rentals in Tuscany. So ... we compilled a list of fun things to do to whet your appetite even though you might have just begun to consider Vilas for rent in Tuscany   or Holiday Villas in Lucca . Our recommendations really depend on what you arelooking for:

Fun shopping with a little bit of culture ?  - The market in San Lorenzo is fun, has great silk scarves, leather jackets, leather bags, Florentine printed paper goods, Venetian carnival marks, gloves, and MANY other fun things, with low mark ups,  it also happens to be very close to the PHENOMENAL Michael Angelo’s marble statues of Night and Day, Dawn and Dusk which adorn the Medici tombs in the mausoleum of the Basilicca di San Lorenzo. There is one special sculpture of Lorenzo di Medici whose is in a pensive sitting position, this sculpture has the illusion of following you wherever you go in the room.  The larger Capella dei Principi houses the most amazing work of marble inlay where intricate designs of fruit and flowers shaped of marble slices in different colours defy belief.

Fashion ? well Florence is THE SEAT of Ferragamo who also own hotels in Florence in case you prefer to "Hotel it" rather than Rent a Villa in Tuscany  the Ferragamo HQ  is in the extensive Palazzo Spini Feroni in Via dei Tornabuoni so an excursion to this beautiful  store is a must,  you will find pictures of Salvatore Ferragamo fitting Audrey Hepburn’s shoes, among other memorabilia. On Via Tornabuoni  you also find  large Versace, Prada, Pucci, Cavalli, Gucci and Armani stores.

Romance ? Ponte Vecchio a medieval bridge complete with many shops along both sides. Is nearby and is well known for its silver with great views up and down the Arno.

Adventure ? Just spend time walking the little streets, alleyways and roads I can guarantee you will discover  vintage clothing shops,  artisanal workshops. Random water troughs as fountains ... now if all this walking is making you hungry then eat in the Trattoria 4 Leoni ,  and finish off with gelato at The BEST gelato place of all time  the Gelateria dei Neri, on Via Dei Neri,  close to the Basilica of Santa Croce In short Florence needs no introduction, it is beautiful, timeless, serene, interesting and above all inspiring city.  A few extra highlights are Piazza della Signoria [where the duel scene of “Room with a view” is filmed], the Baptistery, famous for its bronze doors by Ghiberti, alongside the Duomo. There is a fun Ferragamo Hotel called “Gallery Hotel Arts” telephone 055 27263 it is almost at the beginning of the Ponte Vecchio with a lovely terrace bar where you can sip cocktails and see Florence from the rooftops. Off the beaten track there is the Church of San Miniato a Romanesque church with the most beautiful Mosaic at the back.

Museum hunting ? Florence has many well know sites, the Uffizi Museum for example is amazing but you must book and arrive ON TIME for your slot otherwise it is gone, there is another Museum Museo dell'Opera del Duomo which houses monuments of the Duomo and works which Michelangelo’s progression as an artist, it is located behind the Duomo, and is one of our favorite museums, then there is the museum of the Academia where the original statue of the David is housed and the beautiful marble “prisoners”.  There are SO many beautiful sites in Florence if you are up to it stay there into the evening and watch the Arno you will feel like Helena Bonham Carter in “Room with a View”. If you are driving rather than going by train, a trip to Fiesole and in particular the Hotel Villa San Michelle - a converted convent designed by Michel Angelo is a “must” especially near sunset on a hot day, have a Belllini Cocktail at the bar, but do remember they expect smart attire.

Further South another highlight is SIENA– World famous for its “Palio” Siena  is a very interesting city, the main attraction there is the fan shaped piazza which is inclined. The Palio is held in this Piazza that riders which race each other on behalf of the different main families of the town battle it out for supremacy in a yearly race that lasts but a few minutes, and has claimed several lives, a very passionate spectacle, full of pomp, bravado and fearsome riding. The Cathedral in the main square is also worth a visit.

Then there is Arezzo is one of the gold producing centers of Italy, sadly all the work is done behind closed doors, or by house wives who work as outworkers for the many factories of gold chain, and gold findings. One Beautiful point of interest is the Piazza Grande. This Piazza and surrounding buildings are very picturesque; this town is full of heraldry. Harking back to the days when Italy was a conglomeration of many small and proud principalities.

Hope you enjoy this small list and take time to live the breathtaking experience of meetign Italy on its own turf !

Head towards the Sea!

… via marble quarries Once you have settled yourself in the best of all the Villa rentals in Tuscany and enjoyed the infinity pool at La Collina del Sole with its saline water  which means you can dive and see underwater to your heart’s content and … your eyes do not sting ! The Saline water infinity pool has another perk; the salt residue helps to enhance your tan and the cool crystalline waters keep you refreshed as you gently roast on the cool marble sunbeds.

Once you are chilled and well rested you might feel like a little foray further afield from your superb Holiday Villas in Lucca  but you still require tanning conditions; then we suggest a trip to the beach, via a very spectacular route, through the marble hills.

Head west through the Carrara Marble hills for Isola Santa and the Disused Marble Quarry

Isola Santa is 20 minutes drive from Castelnuovo and 45 minutes from La Collina del Sole it was once a thriving village, which had a dam placed at its heart, many inhabitants left it, some buildings like a small church were flooded, our friend Gabrielle Matzei re-structured many houses in it, and has repopulated the lake with local trout,  he has also opened a lovely bar where he serves delicious  food, his culinary skill was written up in Bon Apetit Magazine. This is a great place to see how the locals lived several years ago. From here you can visit a “Henraux” disused Marble Quarry, to get there leave Isola Santa, and drive towards Arni and the sea, just after a tunnel called “Tre Fiumi” turn in on your right, all our young visitors and fashion stylist visitors have loved this spot.

If you find it is very hot and you would rather keep cool then explore the old Salt Pirates hideout which is Fornovolasco This town was historically the Salt Pirates hideout, Salt was essential before refrigeration as it preserved meats and it keeps things cool, who would have thought that a vital ingredient to keep Ice cream or Gelato cold would have been salt !

Fornovolasco is a small village encircled by very tall hills, it took a real beating during the Flash Floods in the region in 2002 with many houses torn to pieces.

Still feeling like enjoying the beach ? Then head towards  Forte de Marmi or accurately translated Fort of Marble, it is at the foothills of the Carrara marble hills and on the sea. If you like the beach and sun, then look no further than this Beach town. There is a very small public Beach, hence it is best to pay to have your spot in the sun, there is a particularly nice Beach spot called Sud Est, run by the same family for years now, the current owner is Flavio Giannotti they also cook delightful food and delicious salads.  DO call and book beforehand, 0584 80 846 as smart Italian families take their spot for a whole week, and you might be able to book for a slot between one family and the next. If you prefer a little bit more “Hurly Burly” then check out Viareggio which is also by the sea and just down the road from Forte de Marmi, less refined and more of a seaside town. Viareggio hosts a famous Carnevale just before lent begins,

Head West Young Man ....

… and Woman specially if you have children ! If you are lucky enough to be looking at Villas for rent in Tuscany or Holiday Villas in Lucca and its surrounding mountains then we urge you to  entertain the thought of staying at La Collina del Sole whose views are due West and my ... what beautiful views they are !

The main view of this jewel among Villa Rentals in Tuscany is Paleroso

PALEROSO Village is just across the valley from La Collina del Sole and has lovely walks plus THE spectacularly delicious Bonini Restaurant on the outskirts. Within Paleroso itself opposite the church, you can explore up a steep path to a beautiful View Point.

Our next favorite walk and breathtaking view is CASCIO Cascio is a delightfully small and characteristic town, with a tiny garrison, a small square and church which is lovely and cool although not often open, there is also a bar with a nice veranda. You cannot drive in and must park in the square outside. I would thoroughly recommend it if you have young children in your party so they can have a good run around after eating at the most delicious Bonini restaurant and safely play at “fortresses”

Following the road and still very much part of the View from La Collina del Sole where hopefully you are staying at, having decided it is the best choice when looking to Rent a Villa in Tuscany we find MONTE PERPOLI

Monte Perpoli is a small walled town with a park outside the town, if you go to the furthest point within the town you will see the most amazing views towards Barga. During WWII this was the German observation point for the Gothic Line, its strategic position was one of the reasons why it took so long to rout the German army from this region. From the conversations we have had with our neighbors it appears that German troops on this lookout used mirror reflections signals to kept in touch with their troops on our side of the valley and hills. The impenetrable hideout was literally over the hill from La Collina del Sole in an old Mill aptly called il Mulino, our children used to roam down and play WWII games when young, however nowadays the pathway down to is has become impassable due to briars and saplings along the path.

Further afield but still going west we find the GROTTA DEL VENTO to get to the Grotta del Vento go past Gallicano [pretty town at night from the house, not much to see in it during the day except the main church] and turn left, the Grota del Vento is owned and run by Mr Verole. It is a wonderful set of caves, which connect two mountain ranges. It has a vast array of tunnels, galleries, stalactites and stalagmites. The deepest part of the cave has been used to recuperate children with severe breathing problems as the air is constant in temperature and is very clean, Mr Verole is a keen Speleologist and Geologist who in his spare time has written several guide books One of which is called “Discover Garfagnana “ He also loves to collect different specimens of stones, of geological interest and prehistoric fossils, some of which are on sale in the shop at the Grota del Vento. From our guests be they young or "older" boys,  who have visited this site all have thoroughly enjoyed it. It gets VERY busy in August.

Hunting Fortresses North of La Collina del Sole

If while you Rent a Villa in Tuscany you fancy a spot of adventure and fortress hunting, we list below a few of the highlights north of La Collina del Sole the jewel among Villa rentals in Tuscany The largest town near us is Castelnuovo di Garfagnana which  could be translated as "NewCastle of Garfagnana".

Ariosto spent a few years posted in what is now the Comune of Castelnuovo. He considered this posting rather a trial as to him the rugged seclusion of the location was "the back of beyond". Castelnuovo is full of delicious home grown food shops, artisanal gelaterias and workshops you can also visit the original Fortezza whcih was situated in an excellent defensive position at the top of the hill, to visit this newly restored Fortezza head towards the carabinieri HQ and turn left up the hill … and keep going, up,  up and away !  it is situated at the top of the hill above the town.

If you love walking, biking or cycling there are many fantastic country paths, small or even tiny roads and great wood expanses in this region, here are a few of our favourites

Sillico is a medieval town with trully breathtakingly spectacular views over the valley. It also boasts of a a lovely restaurant at the entrance, called La Terrazza where you can eat a glorious meal very reasonably indeed while admiring the  expansive valleys below. From May through to September it holds midieval feasts and exhibitions of bygone tradicional weaving, land husbandry and cooking.

San Pelegrino in Alpe demarcates the confines between Modena and Lucca,  is it situated a steep drive up towards Pieve Pellago, to the outpost of the Apennine hills, it almost always has snow in the winter, it was a hermitage and is fairly rugged with a museum and the mummified corpses of the hermits of the area San Bianco and San Pellegrino, whom it turns out was Irish! The chapel where they rest demarcates the boundary of Modena and Lucca. If you are feeling incredibly fit and energetic you can cycle up to it, a feat fo sure but very satisfying !

A beautifuly restored fortress is the the Fortezza delle Verrucole, with imposing views and a very good sense of what it must have been like to live in medieval Italy, The town of San Romano is nearby and worth a visit.

Torrite is HOME to our favourite Chocolate Torta, a small very picturesque village in fact a “picture postcard” village with an abundance or red geraniums in terracotta window vases. This village has the Ginestri Chocolate Torta makers in the heart of it. When driving it is best to be in a mini sized car, or you can walk into it and take in the rustic beauty of the houses. and well tended Balconies. If you are interested in Hydroelectrical plants Torrite hosts a rather dramatic looking one in its outskirts

For Nature lovers the entire region abounds in walks, secluded villages, lakes, woods, phenomenal mountain and cliff walks, however if you like cool walks but would rather get there by car and even wander inside the park by car then the Orechiella National Park is perfect for you as it is always cool when the sun is scorching the rest of Tuscany.  Go past Castiglione di Garfagnana, a very picturesque fortified town, then Villa Collemandina and Corfino about 1.45 minutes drive from La Collina del Sole The park has fresh cool walks for those hot days, if you have children or babies in a pram it is easy to get around. It has a sanctuary for bears and a huge pond with the most amazing amount of tadpoles in it at the correct season.

Keep going north and see Parma whcih is definitely worth visiting. A charming town with beautiful architecture – not touristy and very unspoilt. The Cathedral is fabulous. A good day out. The famous theatre here is definitely worth a visit they hold an annual Verdi festival in the autumn.

Exploring northern Tuscany ?

If while you rent a Villa in Tuscany you feel like a few adventures enjoy !  as Tuscany is FULL of beautiful places here are a few of our favourites, lets start travelling south from La Colina del Sole Beautiful Barga With Stunning views of the Apuane Hills, Barga with its Romanesque cathedral, that bears the scarsw of WWII, it is a wonder that the paper thin marble windows are intact, a real point of interest is the pulpit and you mind it sparse, but then most early Italian churches are.  The walk up is steep so if you are in need of a treat on the way down, then visit the Gelateria Baiocchi in Via Pascoli Giovanni 15 Telephone + 39 0583 71 1266 it is almost opposite a shop selling beautiful hand painted ceramics, you will be tempted....  we have been !

There are plenty of Holiday villas in Lucca or surrounding region, however none as beautiful as La Collina del Sole but then we are biased !

As you travel further south on the way to Lucca you could drop in at Bagni di Lucca  it was an old Fashionable SPA resort town of the 1800’s. Byron and Shelley loved staying here.

Luscious Lucca The beautiful walled city of Lucca ,  is reputed to be the birthplace of banking. “Must See” places are: the amphitheater, whcih is oval shaped with the added attraction of having many medieval houses build into it, and Piazza San Michelle which has a delicious homemade ice cream shop, the main street is Via Filungo which as mentioned last week plays host to a beautiful Easter procession. If you can tear yourself away from your beautiful Villa rentals in Tuscany   then a fun thing to do is to rent a bike and cycle on the Lucca walls, the Bike rental place is near Porta de Santa Maria, with the Statues of Panthers guarding the city. Another beautiful site is the Alabaster tomb sculpture of Ilaria del Carretto in the Cathedral of San Martino, another interesting architectural point is the Torre Guinigui, with a tree growing in the centre at the top.  If you feel like a little treat [ as I often do ] then a nice bar and patisserie is called the “Angolo Dolce” in Via Borgo Giannotti, they make their own tortas and pastries.  It is Located on the outskirts to the walls. Just next to this cafe there is a very well stocked Homeopathic Pharmacy called Farmacia Contucci, Via Borgo Giannotti 409, Lucca. Telephone +339 0583 34 3213 – you never know it might come in handy !

Now … for all you garden lovers who are staying in Villas for rent in Tuscany how about Formal Villa Gardens on the outskirts of Lucca ? On the outskirts of Lucca towards and in Marlia, a current flower growing region of Northern Italy, many Villas have well tended gardens which attract visitors from around the globe.  Now should you be in need of a little treat,  as you see I often am in need of a little treat, go to Marlia and you will find My Mei cafe where they have freshly squeezed orange Juice, cappuccino, freshly baked pastries and home-made ice-cream, it is tucked away in a side street. A great little “pit stop”- Enjoy!

If you have children may we suggest Pinocchio Park  in Collodi, Pistoia

Collodi is the town where the famous story of Pinocchio was written by Collodi himself, if you see a copy with the original illustrations for it, it is like a portrait of Italy over 100 years ago, Collodi boasts of a lovely villa and a good park with modern statues.

Keep going South and you arrive at Pisa, which sadly was ALMOST bombed into oblivion during WWII as it had a runway and the Port of Livorno very close. A must see in Pisa is the Cathedral square or Piazza dei Miracoli, encompassing the cathedral, baptistery with its incredible acoustics, and the famous Leaning Tower. There is another treasure in Pisa worth visiting the tiny church of the thorn or “Chiesa Santa Maria della Spina” on the river.

Easter Beauty in Garfagnana

If you are looking at Villas for rent in Tuscany may we suggest that you consider Holiday villas in Lucca or to be precise Garfagnana during Easter time?  And in particular La Collina del Sole as at this time there are impressive Easter processions for many days; Italy is still steeped in Catholicism, many evening torch lit processions abound. In Fosciandora there is one on Maundy Thursday.  If you are feeling energetic and happy to travel, the Easter processions in Via Filungo, Lucca are definitely worth the trip. If you are looking to Rent a Villa in Tuscany in the summer then let me share a little secret: The area around  La Collina del Sole is steeped in history ! if you are traulling round looking for Villa rentals in Tuscany with interesting surrioundings look no further ! Let’s start with the small village where La Collina del Sole is situated :

FOSCIANDORA Fosciandora’s first inhabitants date back to Etruscan times. This area was fiercely fought over by the principalities of Lucca, Pisa, Florence and the Este dynasty from Modena, in the 15th century. In 1452 Lucca ruled over Lupinaia, Riana and Trepignana, and the Estes of Modena ruled over La Villa and Ceserana.

During WWII, this area was again subject to a great deal of fighting, the famous Gothic line [ the line that divided the Germans from the Allied forces of USA and UK, which was fought over for well over a year ] passed through “Le Lama” which is very near Trepignana, the main Intelligence HQ of the Germans were located in the old “Mulino” located in the ridge just south of La Collina del Sole , if you get to see it, you will see that its secluded and well protected position was ideal as HQ especially as the intelligence was passed via mirror reflections code from Fiattone. The Allies were based in Barga, when you visit it you will see the many scars of bomb craters on the main church at the top of the hill which is completely built in marble.

LUPINAIA  - Situated Just above La Collina del Sole ! Its fortified walls date back to 1616 with amazing views it is a lovely walk on the road and cross country. Above Lupinaia are the Prade Garfagnine which can be reached by foot by local Sentieri, these Prade are the home to many Funghi Porcini, and many visitors come from afar to collect the precious mushrooms. You will notice that the cuisine of the area has Funghi as a central ingredient. The Prade has wonderful views and quiet meadows. Should you wish to drive to the Prade by car you will need to start off from “La Villa” village to the north of us,  we highly recommend a 4X4 car to arrive there.

LA VILLA -With lovely views and a central plaza which many of the houses look onto. Both La Villa and Ceserana can be walked to by road going from “ La Collina del Sole ” to Fosciandora, then dropping down and right at the Casa Rosa and going through the “Sentieri “ or walkways.

CESERANA Of particular interest the Rocca di Ceserana or the Fortress of Ceserana; a Romanesque church of Saint Andrea, built on a stone outcrop, the fortress was an important Military garrison and stronghold in the XIII and XIV centuries, it was used to combat the “Salt Pirates” who inhabited the Apuane hills and in particular had their HQ in Fotnovolasco. Salt was a very precious commodity in the Middle ages as it was the only way of keeping things cool and therefore fresh for longer, Gelato which was invented in the Renaissance was dependant on the cooling properties of Salt. The fortress of Ceserana built on a stone outcrop, includes a cave which housed the locals during air raids in WWII and was re-opened in 2008.

RIANA & TREPIGNANA – Just below La Collina del Sole a lovely afternoon walk about 2.5 hour there and back, with lovely views. There is a tiny cafe and small shop in Riana.

SANTUARIO “Madonna delle Stelle” On this site stood a place of worship to the Virgin Mary in 1167. It is said to have been destroyed by an earthquake. The ruins were found in 1798 with a Fresco of the Madonna which dates back several centuries. On this site a new church was built and consecrated in 1827 and attracts pilgrims from many miles around.

“It is written: ‘Man shall not live on bread alone.’ ” -Luke 4:4

And in Italy he does not have to! While enjoying your villa rentals in Tuscany we have selected the most amazing Gelato shops and Pizzerias in Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, and further afield, banter aside we also mention churches with the most beautiful religious art and architecture inspired from the Bible. Just a stone’s throw away from La Collina del Sole , the most glorious of the villas for rent in Tuscany , you will find an exceptional selection of Pizzerias and Gelaterias.  So when you are enjoying your Holiday villas in Lucca or if you are further afield in Florence we have THE BEST gelateria in the world ! Gelateria dei Neri , on Via Dei Neri,  close to the church of Santa Croce. So fear not you WILL enjoy great foodie comfort when you rent a villa in Tuscany . First of all  Gelaterias in Castelnuovo just a stone’s throw away from La Collina del Sole there are three recommended pit stops all with home gelato production: First  -Botega del Gelato Piazza Umberto, Very central on the main Piazza Umberto. It is the most established and yummiest Gelateria in town. With a concise selection of freshly made Gelati.

Second - In... Gelateria. Piazzetta del Duomo, Tel  349 425 48 02 . It has delicious freshly made ice cream, frozen yoghurt, frappe, ice cream cakes or tortas, gluten free ice cream, brioches, crepes and waffles.  Closed Tuesdays during winter only.

Third  - Fuori dal Centro ,Piazzetta O. Dini . Just inside the east side entrance to the fortressed part of Catelnuovo,   very close to the Aia di Piero and Pizza Clary – gelato and frozen yoghurt.  They also make “Merangue” based ice cream which lighter in weight and a different consistency to traditional “gelato”

Further afield in the historic and beautiful town of Barga you find Gelateria Baiocchi in Via Pascoli Giovanni 15 Telephone + 39 0583 71 1266 which is almost opposite a shop selling beautiful hand painted ceramics, you will be tempted....  we have been !

On a more substantial note; unless you would like to have an entire Ice Cream meal and why not?  Ice Cream might be high in sugars and fats BUT it is a very good treat for the body to have from time to time, we now go onto Pizzerias, pizza tends to be eaten in the evening in traditional parts of Italy, which means that Pizzerias tend to open only in the evening and if a restaurant offers pizza it will usually be available only in the evenings too,  as the Pizza oven needs to be warmed up a few hours in advance.

In Castelnuovo di Garfagnana a hop skip and jump from La Collina del Sole one of the most awesome Lucca Villa rentals you will find.  Is our favourite:

 “ Il Centro “  -Via Vallisneri,  in Piazza delle Erbe, Telephone  0583 644550 Il Centro makes the thinnest wood oven pizza in town, DELICIOUS and always very busy. Run by a family team; waiting time for take away varies from 20 to 50 minutes. Open late afternoon and evening only, closed on Wednesdays year round except in August.

Next in line is Pizzeria Clary, on the  corner of Via O. Dini, Telephone 0583 65 198. It Opens late afternoon and evenings during the week & from noon on Thursdays. Pizzas are GOOD and cooked in a wood oven. The base tomato sauce they make is slightly saltier than in other places, and very reasonably priced.  Do try the Bruschetta Pizza and the Vegetable pizza, they are delicious and refreshingly different !

Last but not least if you like your Pizza salty and with very rich mozzarella Cheese, try La Credenza, Via Farini 2, Telephone 0583 63 9332.  This is a Pizzeria and Rosticceria, – with a wood oven, they make the richest of all the Pizzas in town, also delicious roast chickens, beef and pork. Located next to ”Castelli” Supermarket just after Piazza Umberto, which is the main piazza in Castelnuovo. Open late morning through to late evening.

Also slightly out of town in Pieve Fosciana you will find  Il Pozzo,  Pieve Fosciana, Via Europa 2 /A, Telefone 0583 66 63 80 ,  e-mail ristorante.ilpozzo@alice.it. Il Pozzo In Pieve Fosciana A 20 minute drive from “ La Collina del Sole ” does great pizza although only for supper. This is also a great restaurant with the best antipasto [mixed starter] dish in the area. Giordano and  Maurizio the owners of “Il Pozzo” have formed part of the “Slow Food” movement from its inception, they are passionate about properly grown or reared food and have won several awards. Pretty busy but also fairly capacious, they close on Wednesdays apart from August when they open seven days a week.

Now onto Food for the Soul and the eyes.

Nearest La Collina del Sole  you will find  the Santuario  “Madonna delle Stelle” in fact all you have to do is walk down hill ! On this site stood a place of worship to the Virgin Mary in 1167. It is said to have been destroyed by an earthquake. The ruins were found in 1798 with a beautiful Fresco of the Madonna which dates back several centuries. On this site a new church was built and consecrated in 1827 and attracts pilgrims from many miles around.

Also in one of the neighbouring villages of particular interest is the Rocca di Ceserana or the Fortress of Ceserana; a Romanesque church of Saint Andrea, built on a stone outcrop, with lovely paper thin marble windows, the fortress was later an important Military garrison and stronghold in the XIII and XIV centuries, it was used to combat the “Salt Pirates” who inhabited the Apuane hills.

In Lucca, One of the most incongruous churches that I have come across is the one in Lucca in Piazza San Michele, with a beautiful and incongruous faҫade. That is so ornate it looks totally different to the body of the church , which was never finished as the money ran out, a salutary reminder not to be purely concerned with appearances.  Here too there is a good if expensive gelateria on the corner of the piazza.

Also in Lucca we find the Duomo with the beautiful Alabaster tomb sculpture of Ilaria del Cerretto in the Cathedral of San Martino, it has been so beautifully carved, you could almost expect her to wake up refreshed from a deep sleep.  Outside the walls of Lucca you find another gelateria and cake shop called the “Angolo Dolce” in Via Borgo Giannotti, they make their own tortas and pastries.

In Florence, the wealth of art must be God inspired from the Exquisite Cimabue Santa Croce Crucifixion painting to the Baptistery mosaics, the numerous masterpieces of Michael Angelo scattered around Florence and the beautiful sculptures and roundels of Luca della Robbia again dotted all around Florence and San Miniato [which overlooks Florence], and of course Ghiberti’s Baptistery doors which are so intricate and accessible for all to see.  A reminder that God is a Glorious Creator who lavishes his blessings extravagantly hence I fully agree with the statement Jesus made : “It is written: ‘Man shall not live on bread alone, but on every word that comes from the mouth of God.’ ” Matthew 4:4

Our first Feedback ! and TOP TEN Food shops !

From Natascha who when searching to Rent a Villa in Tuscany, found La Collina del Sole and from all the Villas for rent in Tuscany - chose us !  here is what she wrote “I thank you so much for your invaluable information (and I am really enjoying the blog). I was very excited about the oil and wine tasting you mentioned. We will definitely be stopping in at Andrea Bertucci on our way to the villa (done, Done and DONE!).  Also, we definitely want to book walking tours and are planning on contacting Francesco Pierotti directly. Chrissie, I would just like to say that not only do I love your website but I love your blog as well. You provide a lot of information and, as a tourist, I find it amazing. Thanks again!

So if you are looking for Villa rentals in Tuscany or Holiday Villas in Lucca this blog is for you, the best food shops in the area !

Close to La Collina del Sole you will find  “Moscardini Mari Chiara’s “ General store, the vegetables come from the fields nearby, Mari Chiara carries a handy selection of general food items like cheese, cold meats, tinned food, fresh bread, ice cream,  and of course home grown vegetables and fruit and it is a café !  it is a 15 minute walk, or 5 minutes’ drive from “ La Collina del Sole

I love food shopping! It is such an integral part of the enjoyment of food, specially when bought from small shops where the vegetables are FRESH as fresh can be, in fact often straight from the field, where the butcher butchers his own meat and carefully selects the best cut. Where wine shops have excellent assortments and low mark ups ! Where pasta is cut to YOUR specification FRESH and as much or little as you want, the JOY of it is overwhelming, as indeed is the fun of cooking it never mind the treat of eating it !

So here is my top tip selection in Castelnuovo di Garfagnana –

VEGETABLES

La Piazetta – 12 Via Fulvio Testi, Telephone 0583 644520 Located between the Loggiato and the Piazza del Duomo, It is an excellent veggie shop with specialities like figs, fresh locally picked berries, fresh funghi and other treats when they are in season; they also stock truffle salami YUMMY ! and fresh local honey. Run by a husband and wife team limited English spoken, very friendly.

Casa della Frutta, on Via Vittorio Emanuele, I had to put the phot otherwise you woudl not know it is a shop! except for the occasional basket of fruit outside, It has no sign over the doorway, opposite the main entrance to the old town, between the main car park and the small pebbled street leading down to chiesa della visitazione di Maria - very nice and affable guy runs it, he speaks moderate English, his shop is very well stocked and will occasionally have in season “treats” - very conveniently placed shop as it is the closest to the main car park.

Da Andrea , Via Farini , Telephone 0583 65373  - Opposite the supermarket Castelli and La Credenza Pizzeria, and just before Magnani where you can get English newspapers and toys; Da Andrew is on the road down a short flight of steps. Andrea the owner stocks a reasonable selection of veggies. His wife is from “La Villa” one of our neighbouring villages

BUTCHER

There is only one to go to  it is Maccelleria Broggi  , Via Vallisneri  12,  on the Piazza delle Erbe, Telephone  0583 644214. Excellent locally grown meats.  The young owner, Emanuelle, speaks good English and will prepare the meats to your specification.  Macelleria Broggi also stocks a small selection of general shopping requirements and a good selection of cured meats.

DELICATESSEN

Again Only one to speak of, L’Aia di Piero, Porta O. Dini,on Via Roma, Telephone  05893 62519,  www.aiadipiero.com ,   Open every day of the week, located just by the East side entrance to the fortressed part of Castelnuovo.  It makes and sells Delicious Italian and local specialties, wonderful food, sauces, ready prepared meals, AMAZING Potato Bread [Pane di patate] – all these delicacies are fairly expensive but worth it.

BREAD

Alfreda Ginestri, Via Farini, Telephone 0583 62 134.  Located near the Newsagent and toy store Magnani – Ginestri does THE BEST Ciabbatta in town, it also does Focaccia, wood oven cooked Potato Bread [ pane al legno and pane di patate] and ... THE BEST Chocolate torta, which is a local specialty made with Ricotta and oodles of Chocolate. It gets better as it matures, mind you it hardly ever gets to mature in our household ! The owner is the sister to the famous Ginestri bakery in Torrite.

Bechelli and Landini, Piazza Orlando Dini 4, Telephone 0583 62320. Loated near the Duomo in Castelnuovo, very near Aia di Piero and our very favourite “New Bar”.  They do GREAT Foccacia & Potato Bread, amongst other things, they are always busy.

Ginestri, Main Square, Torrite, Telephone 0583 62613...... ok it is not IN Castelnuovo but it is SO good, and GORGEOUS Torrite is a hop, skip and a jump away, A 25 minute drive from “ La Collina del Sole ”, in Torrite a very beautiful small town, Ginestri is famous in the area for its Chocolate Torta that gets better with time … if it survives. Also great focaccia, ciabatta, etc.  The owner Renata is very affable but runs out of tortas quickly best to order in advance. Sizes available are medium and “grande” [large] To book call Telephone 0583 62613.

FRESH PASTA

Back in Castelnuovo - L’Arte della Pasta, Via D. Pacchi, Telephone 0583 641464. Tucked away in Via D. Pacchi which is behind and under the main square, accessible through the hole in the wall in the main Piazza Umberto. L’Arte della Pasta has homemade pasta made by Valeria Adami which can be ordered or bought on the spot in any quantity and of any shape and thickness that you wish. They also sell freshly homemade sauces like Bolognese. Worth the little walk, closed on Mondays.

FRESHLY CURED MEATS

Ok, It is not IN Castelnuovo BUT it is Worth the visit ! If you like Cured meats and are allowed to take some home, like a leg of Parma ham ? Truffle Sausages ? Bellandi – L’Antica Norcineria, Via Rinascimento 6, Ghivizzano 55053 , Tel 0583 77008, www.anticanorcineria.it. The Truffle Salami is wonderful; they cure their own meats, salamis, hams, even biroldo, which is the Italian version of Black pudding.  One of their walls is lined with whole legs of Parma Ham of different sweetness’s from Parma to the local Cured ham which is delicious.  L’Antica Norcineria is a good 35 minute drive from “ La Collina del Sole “ in Ghivizzano. Where you also find the beautifully preserved Castello di Ghivizzano  which stages medieval events in September and live Nativity Scene in December So you can also swing a spot of culture into your gourmand experience.

Now you may have gathered that I don’t really like supermarkets, but sometimes they are a must so … Here are the top 3 in order of preference.

Castelli Supermarket META  - Via Farini, Castelnuovo central Piazza, Telephone 0583 62250. Situated just off the main square called Piazza Umberto due NW. Castlenuovo is a 15 minute drive by car from “La Collina del Sole“. Castelli Supermarket is well stocked with all types of diary food, fresh meat, cured meats, fresh vegetables, drinks and many other goods in addition to being reasonably priced. A good place to go if you do not feel like exploring all the delightful specialist shops found in the town.

Also in Castelnuovo but off the beaten track  is CONAD, Via Valmaira,  Near the Minicipal Pool in Castelnuovo. Is the local “large” Supermarket on the road that runs between the local pool and the main town, Opening hours 9AM to 8PM. Easy onsite parking and a 20 minute ride from “ La Collina del Sole ”.

Massive has everything including electrical appliances!  - E L’Eclerc , Via di Fondovalle, 55027 Gallicano, Tel  0583 72511. On the outskirts of Gallicano, a 25 minute drive from “ La Collina del Sole ”, with a huge car park on site. You will probably have driven past it if you came from Lucca. It is a very large and extremely well stocked supermarket.

MARKET DAY

If you are in Castelnuovo di Garfagnana  on Thursday  it starts 8AM runs to 1PM In Barga  - held on Saturday starts at 8AM and runs to 1PM With a riot of flowers, trinkets, inexpensive clothes, shows, cooking Utensils [always essential when travelling !!! ] home furnishings, candy floss, plants, hunting gear, etc.  Great fun to visit and be tempted by the market stalls which have many locally produced goods; the Castelnuovo shops also make a special effort on the day.

Then of course you could go to a different excellent bar or restaurant for every meal of the day for at least 10 days without going to the same place twice, by spending very modest sums sometimes less than you would spend on ingredients for a meal and of course by adding a few kilos on the way, but then it is a holiday right ?

Fancy a Walk … ?

If you are looking to walk while you Rent a villa in Tuscany, be it a gentle stroll through vineyard fields or a rugged mountaineering, La Collina del Sole is situated in a part of the world which is well known not only for its Villa rentals in Tuscany but also for its wonderful walks, people come from all over Europe and internationally to enjoy the fantastic scenery that is on offer.La Collina del Sole one of the jewels within the Holiday villas in Lucca is surrounded by extremely beautiful walks of all kinds, we have rugged mountains, the Orechiella  National Park nearby, the Tuscan Emilian Apenine National Park, the Regional Park of the Apuan Alps which is the view from La Collina del Sole Also this particular area with few excellent Villas for rent in Tuscany you find Carrara marble quarries both disused and in use, and many picturesque walks with “Refugios” to eat at or stay in. you will always find small reminders of Italian culture whether in derelict villages, shrines off the beaten track or remote churches.

We have very close to La Collina del Sole home, a fully accredited guide who can take you on walking tours in our immediate vicinity as well as longer tours in our marvellously rugged mountain ranges and valleys.  You can visit Ceserana, La Villa, Fosciandora and Lupinaia, Riana and Trepignana all beautiful medieval fortresses whcih until very recently were the crucial outposts of 5 principalities, the reason they were so crucial was that for many it was the route to access salt,  used in preserving meats essential in the middle ages through to very recent history, and for keeping things cool, Gelato [ ice cream] invented by the Italians would never have kept cool without the help of salt !   Francesco is an expert in the local plants, habitat and animals,  his partner Alina speaks perfect English.  To contact Francesco Pierotti call Telephone +39 320 41 31 901, if you only speak English then call Alina D’Amelia  Francesco’s English speaking girlfriend at + 39 331 39 85 869 their  e-mail is   alinadamelia@gmail.com

You could visit wonders further afield like Isola Santa walk around the area and take advantage of the yummiest restaurant in the area with Gabrielles cooking, or choose to REALLY go climbing and reach the heights of Mount Sumbra   or Pania della Croce .  or the Alpi di Sant Antonio and eat at la betulla.

There is the most awesome variety of walks and beautiful locations. For recent history fans you can visit WWII  disused bunkers pointing to the sea or sections of the famous Gothic Line  which kept the Germans separated from the Allies for one year.  To walking the old walkways or thoroughfares whcih date from medieval times if not before ! and criss cross this beautiful region linking old abandoned villages and thriving villages, disused  Frontier points , garrisons, churches and monasteries, A lovely Hermitage which can be visited AND does Amazing food is the Eremo de Calomini

For further information on Trekking you can contact the tourism coordinating centre [Centro di coordinamento de Turismo ] in the Piazza delle Erbe 1, Castelnuovo di Garfagnana. Tel 0583 65169 www.turismo.garfagnana.eu Open from 9AM – 1PM and 3-7PM from June to September and 9-1AM and 3 - 5.30PM from October to May. They have a good selection of maps both free and for sale, which will show the local towns, the official footpaths and Refugios where you can eat and stay, plus a list of guides and recommended routes.  A different contact is Antonella Polli at Telephone 0583 65 169 of Garfagnana Vacanze located on Piazza delle Erbe #1

Olive Oli and Wine tasting anyone ?

Have you ever dreamed of tasting the difference between Olive Oil types ?  Well it is possible just 15 minutes from La Collina del Sole, which I unashamedly say is a jewel among the Villas for rent in Tuscany you will find the Osteria Vecchio Mulino, Via Vittorio Emmanuelle 12, in the heart of Castelnuovo, it is a Historic “ Osteria di Garfagnana ”.Osteria Vecchio Mulino was built into the lower walls of the Castellated town and has been in this location for several centuries. This Osteria is a destination for Italian wine lovers, from all over the world. It sells local and Super Tuscan wines alongside local products, it offers wine and oil tasting, you can choose from Local, to Tuscan, from Northern Italy or Southern Italian wines to book speak to Andrea Bertucci open every day except Mondays.

To book your wine or Tuscan olive oil tasting session call +39 0583 62192 giving 2 days’ notice, Cost of tasting starts at €10 per person with a minimum of 2 people in the party.

To eat well and drink FAB wines while you enjoy your Villa rentals in Tuscany we suggest Trattoria di Bonini Pier, [Via Monteperpoli 147 – Monteperpoli   55032 Tel  0583 639 425 and  0583 62210  ] with an excellent lunch Menu for Euro 10, including house wine. However if you want to lay your hands on really good wines, at reasonable prices opt of the well-chosen list of wines, the owner Pier Bonini has an impressive wine knowledge, by the way you can also eat like a king here. To get there allow 20 minutes drive from La Collina del Sole  While you are in the area can see beautiful Cascio, Paleroso and Monteperpoli.

Now if you would like to Rent a villa in Tuscany during Wine festical times while enjoying a realxing and idyllic infinity pool then 1.30 hours drive from La Collina del Sole in September the Festa del Vino get under way,  The best festa in the region is in Monte Carlo, near Lucca which has an exceptional wine festival with wine producers selling their wine in cases, and giving samples, with wonderful food stalls and Local Artisanal produce.

For those more adventurous wanting to Rent a villa in Tuscany  and who would like to personally taste the Vendemia season with grape picking the traditional way, you are more than welcome to join us at La Collina del Sole where we have our own organic wine.

Harvesting usually starts in October depending on how hot the summer has been and the amount of rainfall. When the Vendemia starts, wine making takes place in all the surrounding vineyards, including ours, it is really good fun although a touch tiring, the locals are always happy to show you how to harvest the grapes, it can be hard on the hands if you are not a seasoned gardener. The weather is usually excellent, not too hot or cold, and you get a real “feel” for what community farming and harvesting must have been as all is done in the old traditional way, then at the end of a strenuous grape picking day, have an invigorating plunge into the Salt water infinity pool and enjoy a well-deserved Vendemia Dinner.

Now if you would like to go to the historical root of Olive Oil production while checking out the Holiday villas in Lucca  check out Lucca iteself, for reference it is a 50 minute drive away from La Collina del Sole.  Lucca is well renown for its Olive oil.  A beautiful walled city, It is also reputed to be the birthplace of banking.

“Must see” places in Lucca are: the amphitheatre, one of the few oval shaped ones, with many medieval houses build into it, and Piazza San Michelle which has a delicious homemade ice cream shop, the main street is Via Filungo which is spectacular in Easter with the many processions. A fun thing to do is to rent a bike and cycle round the walls, the Bike rental place is near Porta de Santa Maria, with the Statues of the Panthers guarding the city. A beautiful site is the Alabaster tomb sculpture of Ilaria del Cerretto in the Cathedral of San Martino and an interesting architectural point is the Torre Guinigui, with a tree growing in the centre at the top.  A nice bar and patisserie is called the “Angolo Dolce” in Via Borgo Giannotti, they make their own tortas and pastries. Located on the outskirts to the walls. Just next to this cafe there is a very well stocked Homeopathic Pharmacy called Farmacia Contucci, Via Borgo Giannotti 409, Lucca. Telephone +339 0583 34 3213 From Wine to Gardening Lucca is well known for its Formal Villa Gardens, drive towards and in Marlia, a current flower growing region of Northern Italy, many Villas have well tended gardens which attract visitors from around the globe. In Marlia itself you will find My Mei cafe where they have freshly squeezed orange Juice, cappuccino, freshly baked pastries and home-made ice-cream, it is tucked away in a side street. A great little “pit stop”- Enjoy!

All things FASHION !

With New York kick starting the biannual Fashion Calendar on the 9th of February, we are in for one month’s endless stream of “new” looks, re-invented looks and “classics with a twist”.In the Fashion Calendar, hot on the heels of New York follows London [17-22 February], Milan [22-28 February] and a grand finale with Paris [28 February to 7 March] with the Autumn Winter 2012 collections well at least with the current weather the fashions will not look out of place, sadly we will have to wait a few months to get out hands on them … From our very beautiful Lucca based Villa Rental  - La Collina del Sole, you could go to Milan see the “pick of the bunch” show and come home to rest and tranquillity, on the other hand if you would like to check out what the Italians really wear, many of which have an innate sense of style and can look chick while going to milk the cow!   then sit by a café and watch the world go by, in Castelnuovo  di Garfagnana we would suggest a couple of places: Bar Ariosto, Piazza Umberto - This bar has a good selection of breakfast pastries and paninis. Delicious fresh juices, ice creams, cocktails with complimentary nibbles and much more. It is very central with very Pleasant service, it is run by a couple of very helpful young men, with its outside seating you can enjoy the Castelnuovo buz.

Bar Centrale, Piazza Umberto, Also on the main piazza Umberto. Good to sit with a different vantage point and watch the Castelnuovo world go by ... literally.

Florence  is close to La Collina del Sole and has THE best boutiques, it is the home of Ferragamo, The brand Cavalli has one of its main headquarters just outside in Sesto Fiorentino, and many Couture houses use textiles from Prato and Furs from Santa Anna, so you can shop to your heart’s content knowing that you are close to the marrow of Fashion. Then you can always check the sites out -  Florence needs no introduction, it is beautiful, timeless, serene, interesting and above all inspiring.  A few highlights are Ponte Vecchio, Piazza de la Signoria [where the duel scene of “Room with a view” is filmed, the Baptistery, famous for its bronze doors by Ghiberti, the Duomo, the Medici Tombs in the Church of Santo Stephano, and the Street market that is adjacent to it, their mark up is very reasonable, so stock up on silk scarves, cashmere scarves and leather goods. There is a fun Ferragamo Hotel called “Gallery Hotel Arts” telephone 055 27263 it is almost at the beginning of the Ponte Vecchio with a lovely terrace bar where you can sip cocktails and see Florence from the rooftops. Off the beaten track there is the Church of San Miniato a Romanesque church with the most beautiful Mosaic at the back. The BEST gelato of all time must be that of the Gelateria dei Neri, on Via Dei Neri,  close to the church of Santa Croce. Florence has many well know sites, the Uffizi Museum for example is amazing but you must book and arrive ON TIME for your slot otherwise it is gone, there is another Museum Museo del Opera del Duomo which houses monuments of the Duomo and works which Michelangelo’s progression as an artists, it is located behind the Duomo, and is one of our favorite museums, then there is the museum of the Academia where the original statue of the David is housed and the beautiful marble “prisoners”.  There are SO many beautiful sites in Florence if you are up to it stay there into the evening and watch the Arno you will feel like Helena Bonham Carter in “Room with a View”. If you would like to eat in Florence check out our Restaurant section for the Trattoria 4 Leoni, whci hwe wrote about a couple of weeks ago www4leoni.com.

If you are driving rather than going by train, a trip to Fiesole and in particular the Hotel San Michelle - a converted convent designed by Michel Angelo is a “must” especially near sunset on a hot day, have a Belllini Cocktail at the bar, but do remember they expect smart attire. SO YOU SEE Fashion IS important after all …

For "Foodies" !

Being a serious “Foodie” myself I thought you might enjoy a few recommendations - Our local Train stop of Ponte di Ceserana houses a little home grown treasure Il Ponte di Ceserana - 15 Loc Ponte di Ceserana, Telefone 0583 66 20 05 The owner/cook, Claudio, comes from Ayr in Scotland, he produces amazing locally produced grappas of different flavours at the end of the meal. His wife Clementina and children help run the restaurant and bar.  A good hours walk from the “ La Collina del Sole ”, great to burn off all the calories after the meal as it is uphill coming home. Claudio speaks perfect English with a wonderful Scottish accent, closed Mondays, booking preferred.

Now if you are a SERIOUS Foodie you will have to visit Boninis Trattoria di Bonini Pier, Via Monteperpoli 147 – Monteperpoli   55032, Telefone  0583 639 425 and  0583 62210.

HIGHLY RECCOMENDED. There is an excellent lunch Menu for Euro 10, including house wine. There is also a most amazing a la carte dinning which is best appreciated in the evening. Highly recommended are the homemade Linguini with Truffles, Tagliatta of Beef with Grilled vegetables, all the game dishes are exceptional. The owner has an impressive list and knowledge of wines which are well priced. Cost of a la carte meal is approximately Euro 25, plus wine. Closed on Tuesdays.  To get there allow 20 minutes drive from “La Collina del Sole” going towards Castelnuovo, however just before the bridge into town and just after the FIAT garage, turn sharp left towards Paleroso and Monteperpoli, keep left and driving uphill towards Paleroso, you will see it on your left, it has a limited car park.

Does the idea of SLOW Food appeal well think …. Il Pozzo in Pieve Fosciana. Via Europa 2 /A,Tel 0583 66 63 80 ,Email- ristorante.ilpozzo @alice.it The movement Slow food is basically very interested in keeping alive home grown traditional dishes, and ingredients that due to the “homogenization”  of society are at risk, they beleive that great food must be prepared with care, love and time, and eaten with the same amount of care love and at a gentle pace with delectation. At “ La Collina del Sole ”  we also share this passion and you may have Fantastic food prepared for you in situ,  however if you would like a change of scene from your favourite Lucca Villa Rental home, then Il  Pozzo is a 20 minute drive away It has the BEST antipasto [mixed starter] dish in the area. Giordano and Maurizio founded Il Pozzo in 1985 and have formed part of the “Slow Food” movement from its inception. Their Menu Degustation has home-made pasta, home grown vegetables and herbs. Their list of approximately 120 Italian wines includes some from Lucca, Tuscany and further afield. They are passionate about the origins of the food they prepare and have won several awards. Great food and good ambience any time of year, usually busy but capacious. They close on Wednesdays apart from August when they open seven days a week.

BUON APETITO !

Truffle Salami Anyone ?

Are you a “Foodie”  and would love a luxury farmhouse with pool this summer ?Well … we have great news for you: Very close to our Luxury farmhouse with infinity pool “La Collina del Sole”  is the best delicatessen in the whole of the Natural Park region of Tuscany and specifically in Garfagnana is “ L’Aia di Piero” in Via Roma,  by the Porta O. Dini, Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, Telefone 05893 62519, www.aiadipiero.com Open every day of the week, located just by the East side entrance to the fortressed part of Castelnuovo.  Aia di Piero,  is a Delicious specialty local food delicatessen, An Aladdin’s cave for “Foodies” you can also eat in, sitting comfortably in the old wine cellars or al fresco in the summer . L’aia di Piero makes and sells Delicious Italian and local specialties, wonderful sauces, ready prepared meals, AMAZING Potato Bread [Pane di patate] It also has a vast range of Hams and Salamis, locally cured meats, Funghi Porcini and truffles in every conceivable form from dried, in oil, in pasta, in sauces, in meats, sausages, salami and even in salt, Local specialities like Garlic chunks in oil,  onion marmalade for cheeses, local honey, and marmalades not to mention all the locally made tortas, chocolate, apple, fruits of the forest, esquisita……….– all these delicacies are fairly expensive but worth it for a treat.

At La Collina del Sole, the infinity pool has a sunken Jacuzzi and the pool water purification is done by salt water electrolysis, which means there is no chlorine eye sting or smell, It is spectacular at sunset when hundreds of Swallows have their “Happy Hour” dipping their beaks in the pool water to drink.  BLISS !  contact us at La Collina del Sole

Psst ... The Best Trattoria in Florence ...

We normally would not send you to a restaurant 1.30 hours drive away from LA COLLINA DEL SOLE, and if you want FAB places to eat near us,  check the WE LOVE section on our site , however this place is worth it specially if you are visiting Florence. It is very central on the other side of the Arno from the Piazza Signoria, walking the streets in this area offers a good sense of Florence a few years ago.Trattoria 4 Leoni is frequented by a long list of celebrities, like Al Pacino,  yet in remains surprisingly unaffected, reasonably priced and just plain nice. The interior has high ceilings good decor and the delicious food and several Florentine Specialities. www4leoni.com Trattoria 4 Leoni, Via dei Vellutini 1/R, Piazza della Passera, 50125 Firenze, Telefone 0552 18562

From now on we promise to stay closer to home  !